Ovabnai: Drain Pipe Leak, Quick Fix? - Plumbing

02-13-2012, 08:49 PM

? #1

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Location: New Jersey, USA

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Hi;
I've got an 85+ year old 2" drain pipe that is leaking at a joint.
I think it's iron pipe, but may be galvanized, or maybe a combo of the two.
The pipe is the drain line for the kitchen sink and the laundry tub.

The leak started when I was working on the laundry tub drain. I caused slight movement to the pipe running between the laundry tub and the vertical pipe from the kitchen. There is a T there, and it is leaking at the joint below the T.

I realize that the pipe needs to be replaced, but I am trying to do a quick fix that will last until we get a plumber. It's not a lot of water, just a drip when the tub or sink is being used.

Is there some kind of putty/goop I could smear on the joint, to have it seal, or maybe a rubber tape of some sort? I've searched the web, and found some tape that seems like it would do the trick, but it is very expensive, and I would have to wait a few days for it anyway.

Another problem is that the pipe is wet, and I don't want to shut down the kitchen and laundry for hours to allow something to dry. So I would love to have something that could be applied to a wet pipe.

Plumber's putty?
Chewing gum?

Any ideas?

Thanks

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02-13-2012, 09:11 PM

? #2

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Join Date: Jan 2012

Location: ohio

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oatey plumbers epoxy sold at lowes break a piece of mix together till one color and press on leak make sure pipe is dry

http://www.lowes.com/pd_23533-138-31...3D2&facetInfo=

The Following User Says Thank You to jaydevries For This Useful Post:

02-13-2012, 09:43 PM

? #3

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Thanks much!
That should give me time to study the situation, and decide if I want to tackle it myself, or have to call in a pro.

02-13-2012, 11:14 PM

? #4

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Yesterday, 08:49 AM

? #5

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Location: New Jersey, USA

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I think I could handle the full replacement, but I am afraid of what happens if I cut the old pipe, and it is so rotten that there isn't anything to attach the repair sleeve (I don't know what else to call those rubber sleeves with a hose clamp on each end to join PVC pipe to old iron/gal).
But any plumber would be faced with the same situation. I suppose his experience and tool box would give him the big advantage though.

Yesterday, 09:48 AM

? #6

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Quote:

well that is true ....but pipe should be able to be cut with little problems so you would be ok.. that rubber part is called a fernco cuppling but do what your comfortable with,, ben

Yesterday, 03:56 PM

? #7

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Quote:

well that is true ....but pipe should be able to be cut with little problems so you would be ok.. that rubber part is called a fernco cuppling but do what your comfortable with,, ben

Thanks for that info. I saw them today when I was at HD. Didn't buy anything yet; just fixed the tub drain today.
That joint doesn't appear to be leaking at the moment, but I have the epoxy and a silicon tape to repair it temporarily when it does decide to leak again.
I have to mull over the full repair, and when I decide to go ahead with it, I'll pre-fabricate as much of it as is practical before I cut out the old pipe.

Yesterday, 06:33 PM

? #8

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Here are a couple of photos of the situation I have.
This is in the laundry, which is in the back of the basement.
The pipe (which drains the kitchen sink and the laundry tub) going into the floor runs for about 20ft under the basement floor to the stack, which is located in the front of the house.

Key to labels:
A: Where the leak is (I wrapped with shrinkable plastic sheet and duct tape for now)
B: PVC pipe going to the kitchen sink. This was replaced within the last 10yrs.
C: Vent pipe leading to the roof
D: Drain from laundry tub.

I would be replacing everything from the T upwards to the existing PVC pipe, and the horizontal piece to the laundry tub (including its trap).

This contraption has been prone to clogging, and about every 3yrs, we have to have the plumber in to roto-rooter it from the cleanout plug in the PVC pipe, which is located above point B.
I am concerned about the pipe that runs under the floor; If it is in as bad shape as what is above ground, I think we're in for a very expensive repair in the not too distant future.

Here is an overview of the configuration.

Yesterday, 07:32 PM

? #9

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Location: Nashville, TN

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Just a thought: A couple of times in situations like yours I have taken a 3 inch fernco and put it around the hub of the cast iron pipe. That connection looks like the only thing that could give you trouble.

Yesterday, 07:45 PM

? #10

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Quote:

You mean to keep it from cracking while I'm cutting the pipe above it?

Yesterday, 08:03 PM

? #11

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No, I would not believe you could tie onto the short piece of pipe coming out of that hub. Maybe you can. I would be afraid it would crack/fall apart when you tried to do anything with it. I would try to get that little piece out of the hub, the use a fernco to start your new pvc. Good Luck!

Yesterday, 09:43 PM

? #12

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Location: New Jersey, USA

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Quote:

OK. Now I understand. Then I just need a reducer to take it down to the size of the PVC I will be using (I think it's 2").
Now I'm starting to think that maybe this whole thing is over my head, and I should call the pro!

Last edited by KE2KB; Yesterday at 09:45 PM.

Yesterday, 10:23 PM

? #13

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Yesterday, 11:04 PM

? #14

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Location: ohio

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ok best thing to do is loosen band from pvc 2 inch sawzall galvanized line at cast then drill out the lead in the bell of cast in floor with a series of holes then pry and pull out lead " i like needle nose vise grips" then pull out okum rope "which is under lead" then remove cast put a piece of 3 inch pipe in bell and seal it with a donut or wedge "home depot should have them with the fernco's" take a 3 inch t on top off that then run 3" horizontal turn up a 3 inch t reduce it down for the vent "as long as it is only a vent a t can be used if not a wye needs to be used" connect plastic to existing galvinized with a cast to plastic fernco "it will be the one that has smooth stainless sheild wraped all the way around it" continue the 3 inch all the way to wash machine connecting sink on the way "with a wye and trap" then put a 3 inch trap at wash machine and end of pipe reduce top of trap to 2" and run it higher then top of wash machine making sure 2 inch is at least 18 inches long on top off trap. support pipe every 4 feet and give it 1/8 to 1/4 inch fall per a foot also glue 2 inch sink drain in to top off t